TRY OUR "SEEING IS BELIEVING" EXPERIMENTS
MATERIALS NEEDED: Two (2) 8" x 8" x 8" masonry blocks, regular Portland cement mortar, one (1) nylon bristle paint brush, water and one (1) gallon pail of WET-SEAL as the finished product.
STEP 1: Take both masonry blocks, fill the insides with 2 inches of regular cement mortar, thereby installing a floor, and allow the cement to dry overnight. See Photo 1.
STEP 2: Test the untreated block for filtration problems: first fill it with water. Then, observe the result: it cannot retain water for any extended period - within minutes the block is empty.
STEP 3: Paint the interior of one block with WET-SEAL (slurry consistency). PAINT the exterior of the second block, including the bottom part with one coat of WET-SEAL (slurry consistency). Coat the indicated areas completely and thoroughly with the treatment - cover all pinholes. Allow treatment to dry overnight. See Photo 2.
STEP 4: The Curing Process: First fill both blocks with water and observe. See photos 2, 3, 4 & 5.WORKS WITH WATER PRESSURE: The interior-treated block will begin to resist the water filtration. It may take 1 to 3 days before the process is complete and the block is totally water-tight.WORKS AGAINST WATER PRESSURE: The performance of the exterior-treated block is even more impressive: water will totally penetrate the block's interior before it begins the curing process in reverse. It may take 1 to 2 days before the exterior wall dries completely, eliminating any water filtration whatsoever. See photo # 4 & 5. Furthermore, even when you expose the cured block to extreme weather conditions, hot or cold, for extended periods of time, when later re-filled with water, it will remain waterproofed, water-tight.
STEP 5: THE REACTIVATING PROCESS: (See photos 2, 7 and 8)
Take one of the cured blocks and drill an opening large then a 3/4 P.V.C. pipe. Do not use a chisel, as it will crack the block.
Wash the opening thoroughly and coat the interior area with WET-SEAL, (slurry consistency).
Place the P.V.C. pipe inside the cavity and secure it by packing both sides of the block wall with WET-SEAL mortar. Allow it to harden.
Prepare small portions of WET-SEAL mortar; it's fast setting and any material prepared and not used is lost. Allow the mortar to dry.
Twenty-Four (24) hours later install and elbow (see photo # 5) to the P.V.C. pipe by using P.V.C. glue.
Then, fill the block with water; try not to wet the exterior walls while filling, so that you may see how the water escapes from around the P.V.C. pipe, which at this point is somewhat loose, but after the area is waterproofed, the P.V.C. will be rigidly set and resist movement.
Now turn the P.V.C. elbow handle downward (see photo # 10and #11). You may cap the elbow opening or plug it with WET-SEAL mortar to avoid water spillage through the elbow. This movement will break the bond between the pipe and mortar, which was formed during the curing process, forcing the area to leak once again.
Watch the curing process reoccur.
Repeat this experiment and WET-SEAL will reactivate each time while in the presence of water. Not only it will work around P.V.C. piping, but also copper, steel, rubber, etc.
Use the WET-SEAL in to plug the ends of the above-mentioned pipes and thereby eliminating active leakage (See photo # 5.).
ANOTHER EXPERIMENT
Build a small brick cistern, coat it with WET-SEAL (slurry consistency), and allow to dry. Fill it with water so that you may once again witness the amazing WET-SEAL curing process. When it comes to the age-old problem of water filtration, with WET-SEAL it is now a problem of the past.
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